Other Shooting Methods That
Could Work For You?
With
over 50 years of experience in the shooting sports, Richie Frisella has been a
top finisher in numerous clay shooting tournaments all over the United States.
On this page, Richie will post some of his
favorite shooting tips. Guaranteed to help to break more of those pesky clay
targets.
Packing
Your Gun for Air-Travel
If
you remove the foam filler from your travel vault, you will be able to fit
everything you need, except ammo, for your sporting clays vacation.




MUD-HOLES, AN EXPERIMENT WITH VISION
How can I be a better shooter?
How many times has that thought passed through our mind? Maybe mud-holes
could help you to be a better shooter?
In the beginning stages of shotgun shooting, the new shooter first learns the
basic fundamentals such as a proper gun mount, proper stance and eye and hand
co-ordination. In the next stage, much time is spent learning various
shooting techniques such as, gun insertion points, maintained lead, pull-a-way,
swing through or come-from-behind shooting methods. In the final stages of
training, our best shooters seen to develop a mental concept of planning their
kill strategy and then, implementing that plan. It's as Daniel Schindler
so well states, "develop a mental management program".
Just about every shooting book, video or personal instruction we come in contact
with stresses the need to look exclusively at the target and I'm sure most
shooters do just that. This being the case, with the shooter's complete
focus concentrated directly on the target, leads are determined by our
peripheral vision.
Webster's Dictionary defines peripheral vision as;
The area of vision lying outside the line of direct sight
A "lead" is the distance to the point where the shot charge is
estimated to contact the target. We actually guess at leads because we are
maintaining our (direct) eye contact on the target. This makes the lead spot to
be an imaginary (ghost spot) drifting somewhere in front of the target's path.
It's not directly seen because it's outside our line of direct vision.
Ever think what would happen if we focused our (direct) line of sight on the
estimated lead spot
and not the target. Please read on folks, as we are
about to experiment with your vision, and in the end, maybe making you a better
shot. Remember now, at this point in this article, the lead spot is still
a (ghost spot), it's unseen. Now, look at a clock or a watch, look at the
9 and then move your eyes over to the 3. Now, while you have a direct,
hard focus on the 3, notice how easily the 9 is still (indirectly) visible. Now,
imagine that the 9 was a clay target traveling left to right towards the 3 and
with the eyes still directly focused hard on the 3, notice how well you can
still (indirectly) see the 9. So now, at this point, as you can still see
the 9 (indirectly) but visible within our peripheral vision area, your main
concentration and direct focus is on the imaginary (ghost) lead spot 3.
Let's try the same eye experiment as above but with a different subject.
Looking at the back or front end of an automobile, let's do the same drill as
above. Focus directly on either the left head light or left tail light,
now move your eyes over to the right light. While you have a (direct),
hard focus on the right light, notice how easily the left light is still
(indirectly) visible within your peripheral vision. Getting the picture
now, can you see a possible (lead spot) clearly now? Have you guessed what
mud-holes are yet?
One goal for any instructor is to get the message across to the shooter in the
easiest, best and quickest way he/she can. One of the hardest parts of
instructing is to identify how to verbally get the message across to different
shooters. Words that work for one person might necessary not work for
another. I'm sure you're heard the saying "one picture is worth a
thousand words". What better way is there to get a message across
than with a visual demonstration, an explanation by example, or by a perception
given by sight? Are mud-holes coming into mind?
Maybe at this point we need a little better understanding of lead concepts.
So many times in this sport we have heard "you're measuring, don't
measure." Well, guess what? This is a game of measuring.
Most of us know that leads are changing throughout the flight of any target and
we should all be capable of estimating where the sweet spot would be to best
kill a target in flight. For some, it might be early in the flight while
it has (spring) speed and a straight, true flight, or maybe in its gliding
stage, slightly slowing down before it stalls. For others, that sweet spot could
be immediately after the stall is recognized and lastly, the ideal spot could be
taken in the dropping stage. Regardless, a sight picture or visualization
of lead angle and length should be created in your mind and memory, along with a
precise plan to be executed to kill that target. This is no doubt the
hardest part of shooting, determining correct leads. If we knew every
target's lead, we would probably never miss?
One concept of estimating lengths of lead (think full crossers) might be taken
from the often heard saying" a little bit of lead.. more lead.. a
lot of lead" which works fine for some. Another concept might be 1
foot at 10 yards, 2 feet at 20 yards, 3 feet at 30 yards, 4 feet at 40 and 5
feet at 50 yards which also works fine for some. Another concept is the often
viewed finger measurement of inches as seen from the muzzle to target
relationship. This also works for some but in any case, getting good at
determining leads can only come from experience.
At our Peace Dale Shooting Preserve, which is known for its long, tough targets,
many presentations do require four foot or more in leads. Most shotguns are
about 4 feet in length, more or less a couple of inches. We should all
have an idea of what a shotgun's length would look like if a person was walking
by at 40 yards carrying one. That vision alone is a good guide to estimate and
judge lead. Another thought, most automobile tail lights or head lights
are approximately 5 feet apart and no matter how far away you are from the
automobile the lights will always be 5 feet apart, but the further the distance
they are away from you, the closer together they appear.
Maybe at this point it's time to introduce the mud-hole/shot pattern concept
into the picture. About four years ago, I was trying to get a shooter to
increase his lead on a crossing target and was getting absolutely nowhere. Out
of frustration, I tossed a shotgun shell casing out on the ground about 15 feet
in front of us. I asked for the shooter's shotgun and a couple of shells
and fired a shot about a foot to the right of the shotgun shell. Because
of the wet, saturated ground from recent heavy rains, that shot-string made a
nice, neat mud-hole about the size of a softball and about 12 inches to the
right of that shotgun shell. I then stated to the shooter, "that's
where you keep placing the muzzle and you always end up shooting behind the
target. Now watch this." My second shot placed a nice, neat mud-hole
just two feet to the right of the first mud-hole now a very clear three feet
away from the shell casing. Handing him back his gun, I said, "Now,
that's where you should be placing/inserting that muzzle and shooting."
My next words were, "now, imagine a mud-hole out in front of that crossing
target, inset on it and shoot it. Remember, there are two things out there now,
shoot the one in front". That shooter looked at me, looked at the mud-holes
on the ground, missed the next two targets, trying again, hitting the first and
missing the second, and then broke 9 of the next ten targets. Because of this
visual demonstration of shell casing and mud-hole, from that point on, this
shooter understood visual lead. From that day on, his weekly league
shooting average went immediately from -25/50 to 35+/50. Since that first
"mud-hole" being observed on the ground nearly 5 years ago, I now can
place a shot pattern at any position around that shell casing for determining
and visualizing not only lead length pictures but also lead angles. Example, by
shooting a 6 o'clock mud-hole below a shell casing for dropping teal, a 12
o'clock mud-hole for those straight up teal, or at 10:30 o'clock for a right to
left climbing pheasant.
We can better understand angles by making a paper (clock) template. From a
piece of folded cardstock about the size of a postcard, place a quarter halfway
on center at the fold and mark the half circle with a pencil. Cut it
out with a pair of scissors and unfold and you have a full circle, sort of like
a hole in a piece of paper used for checking eye dominance. Now, just like a
clock or watch, write in the 12, 3, 6 and 9 positions then between those numbers
add the 1 & 2, 4 & 5, 7& 8 and 10 & 11. On a large piece
of paper, draw a line representing the flight of any target you are about to
shoot. Let's draw a chandelle, climbing up from the left side, turning over at
the top and dropping down to the right side. Draw a make believe target on
the line in three separate places, one before the top (11 o'clock), after it
rolls over or stalls (1 o'clock) and the last one representing the dropping line
the target is taking (4 o'clock.) Place the circle over each of the targets by
putting the target in the center of the circle, where the hands would come
together, note the line of travel from there and this gives you a picture of
where the muzzle should be inserted.
During instruction, many times I will create drills for a student. For instance,
lets say we're going to shoot a left to right climbing target at 10:30 with a 2
foot lead. On that same target while nearing it's peak, I might say, now shoot
it at 9 o'clock with a 1 foot lead and a third drill would be in that target's
dropping stage at 6 o'clock with a 1 foot lead. Get the picture?
Hope this is of help, Richie Sr.
Peace Dale Shooting Preserve
Peace Dale, Rhode Island